A Pink Topaz, Seed Pearl and Diamond Necklace, of festoon design, composed of three rows of seed pearls, interspersed with graduated clusters set with oval and cushion-shaped pink topazes in cushion-shaped diamond borders, The pink topaz and diamond necklace and a bracelet, originally belonged to Queen Margherita of Italy who left them to her granddaughter Queen Giovanna of Bulgaria. Queen Giovanna in turn gifted them to her sister-in-law, Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria.

Though she had some difficulty adjusting to her new role of lesser importance, these gifts show that Princess Eudoxia entertained a warm relationship with her sister-in-law Princess Giovanna of Savoy, Tsarina of Bulgaria.

Order of the Golden Fleece

Estimate: 36,000 – 55,000 CHF

From the collection of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria

A sapphire, ruby and diamond neck badge of the Order of the Golden Fleece, from the early 20th century, comes from the collection of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria, who was granted knighthood of the Austrian Order of the Golden Fleece in 1911.

Emerald and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 1,800 – 3,500 CHF

From the collection of Tsar Boris III of Bulgaria

An Emerald and Diamond Brooch, designed as a crescent moon set with cushion-shaped and circular emeralds and circular-cut diamonds, from the 1890s, was given by Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria to his eldest son, Tsar Boris III of Bulgaria, when he was still a child. Tsar Boris III in turn gifted it to one of his infant nephews in the 1920s.

Fabergé Ruby and Diamond Pendant Brooch

Estimate: 3,000 – 5,000 CHF

Given by Empress Maria-Feodorovna of Russia to Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria

A Fabergé Ruby and Diamond Pendant Brooch, designed as a crescent moon set with a cabochon ruby and circular-cut diamonds, supporting two pendants each set with a cabochon ruby, circular-cut and rose diamonds, was given by Empress Maria-Feodorovna of Russia to Princess Eudoxia of Bulgaria in 1904.

Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 2,800 – 4,500 CHF

From the collection of Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Ruby and Diamond Brooch, designed as a fleur-de-lys set with a hexagonal and two triangular fancy-cut diamonds, outlined by calibré-cut rubies, numbered, brooch fitting detachable, circa 1915. This brooch was likely given by Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria as a sixteenth birthday present to his youngest daughter Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria in 1915. She is depicted wearing it in a portrait dated 1915. The fleur-de-lys motif is a reference to the family of her mother, Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma as well as to the family of her paternal grandmother, Princess Clémentine of Orléans.

Köchert Diamond Necklace

Estimate: 16,000 – 22,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria

A Köchert Diamond Necklace, the front composed of clusters set with circular-cut diamonds, alternating with links, set throughout with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, detachable for wear as a bracelet, circa 1890s. The Necklace comes from the collection of Princess Marie Louise of Bourbon-Parma, Princess Consort of Bulgaria, and was the worn by Princess Nadezhda of Bulgaria on the occasion of her marriage to Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg in 1924.

Spinel and Diamond Pendent Necklace

Estimate: 16,000 – 22,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria 

A Spinel and Diamond Pendent Necklace, of lavalière design, each pendant collet-set with a pear-shaped spinel within a frame of circular-cut diamonds surmounted by a bow, supported from a bow-shaped motif set with circular-cut diamonds, on a cable-link chain enhanced at the front with single-cut diamonds, comes from the collection of Princess Eleonore of Reuss-Köstritz, Tsarina of Bulgaria.

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 90,000 – 130,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Brooch from the collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg, circa 1893, designed as a bow set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, supporting a naturalistic spray of wild roses, the stamen and rose-buds set with cushion-shaped and oval rubies, the petals and leaves enhanced with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, bow and flowerheads detachable.

This brooch corresponds to the wedding gift which Archduke Franz Salvator of Austria-Tuscany (1866-1939) purchased at Köchert for his cousin Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. The fittings provided with the ruby and diamond necklace (lot 1072) can also be used to wear the bow-shaped motif and flowerheads as smaller brooches, both jewels were intended to form a suite.

When Archduchess Margarete Sophie passed away in 1902, ruby and diamond suite was part of her estate. In 1913, her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg bequeathed it their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Necklace/Tiara

Estimate: 110,000 – 160,000 CHF

From the Collection of Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Necklace/Tiara, circa 1893, designed as a naturalistic spray of wild roses, the stamen and rose-buds set with cushion-shaped and oval rubies, the leaves pavé-set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, fowerheads and pendants detachable, screwdriver, fitting for wear as a tiara. The Necklace was Emperor Franz Joseph I’s wedding gift for his niece, Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria, Duchess of Württemberg, which was left to her son, Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg, in 1913.

This transformable necklace corresponds to the wedding gift which Emperor Franz Joseph purchased at Köchert for his niece Archduchess Margarete Sophie of Austria when she married Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg in 1893. The necklace was intended to form a suite with the ruby and diamond brooch by Köchert (lot 1071).

When Archduchess Margarete Sophie passed away in 1902, ruby and diamond suite was part of her estate. In 1913, her husband Albrecht, Duke and Crown Prince of Württemberg bequeathed it their son Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 28,000 – 45,000 CHF

A Diamond Tiara, designed as a double spray of foliate design set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, accented with pear-shaped diamonds, centering on a lozenge-shaped motif set with cushion-shaped diamonds, central motif detachable for wear as a brooch, sprays detachable for wear as four brooches.

Diamond Rivière Necklace

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg

An important Diamond Rivière Necklace, from the late 19th century, which belonged to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968), likely she inherited it from her mother Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844–1899).

Köchert Pearl and Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the Collection of Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany

A Köchert Pearl and Diamond Tiara, of openwork, garland design, set with drop- to slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearls, brooch and comb fittings for the central element, two hairpin fittings, five central elements detachable, thirteen pearl pendants detachable. Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968) described this natural pearl and diamond tiara as having belonged to her mother Princess Maria Immaculata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Archduchess of Austria-Tuscany (1844-1899).

The great representative parures produced for the court, though highly impressive, were first and foremost dignified, classical creations meant to be worn for decades and withstand ever changing fashions. To achieve this timeless quality, large pieces were usually transformable in a multitude of clever ways. Tiaras could be worn as necklaces, necklaces could come apart as bracelets, pendants could be removed or added at will and individual elements could be unscrewed for alternative wear as brooches and hairpins.

All through the nineteenth century, jewellery followed wider artistic currents. In the romantic era of the 1830 and 1840s, Viennese jewellery was renowned across Europe for its mastery of light, naturalistic sprays of floral and foliate design. Over the following decades Köchert and other Viennese jewellers would often return to this theme with great success. During the mid-19^th century, high jewellery explored historicizing themes following medieval and renaissance examples. At the Vienna World Fair of 1873, Köchert for instance presented a tiara of Byzantine style and a Swan parure influenced by the pseudo-medieval themes Richard Wagner’s operas.

However, it would be the neo-rococo style that would have the most lasting influence. The flowing ribbons and bows, openwork rinceaux and charming asymmetrical compositions of 18^th century decorative arts translated particularly well into jewellery. Köchert created countless variations on this theme often combined with floral elements. By the early 1900s, the scrolling lines of art nouveau could be discerned in high jewellery, but always interpreted in a discreet way blending in seamlessly with more traditional decorative elements. Under the influence of Parisian jewellers, Viennese jewels of the 1910s took on light, delicate, Louis XVI-inspired designs in platinum settings, ever so slightly foreshadowing the geometric styles that would become predominant after World War I.

Today, the firm of A.E. Köchert is perhaps the only widely remembered Viennese jeweller. Köchert’s wonderfully preserved archive gives a rare glimpse into 19^th century Viennese jewellery production. Von Mack was court jeweller for some 40 years in the Biedermeier era. When he passed away, Köchert and Biedermann were jointly appointed court jeweller by a young Emperor Franz Joseph. In the mid-19^th century, Biedermann was Köchert’s main competitor who also received important Imperial commissions. V. Mayer, Schwarz & Söhne was a highly regarded company that also held the title of court supplier. This jeweller mainly specialized in orders and insignia of which the court was always ordering large quantities. The high nobility also frequented the fashionable jewellers Moritz Hübner and Wilhelm Haarstrick in the late 19^th and early 20^th century.

The end of the Habsburg monarchy deprived these jewellers of their raison d’être. Without court life, the magnificent parures and bejewelled decorations of yesteryear had become obsolete. With the exception of Köchert, almost none of the main fin de siècle Viennese jewellery houses survive today. This unique Imperial and Royal collection having remained virtually undivided and unaltered since the early twentieth century, provides a unique chance to study Viennese jewellery of the belle époque and rediscover the talent of these forgotten masters.

Diamond Rivière Necklace

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg 

A Köchert Diamond Rivière Necklace which was given by Emperor Franz Joseph I to Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany on the occasion of her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg in 1900.

This diamond rivière necklace corresponds to the rivière purchased by Emperor Franz Joseph at Köchert in October 1900 as a wedding present for Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany (1878-1968) on the occasion of her marriage to Robert, Duke of Württemberg (1873-1947). At the time the necklace contained thirty-eight collets so presumably one has been added at a later date.

Monday, October, the 29th, 1900

A wedding at the imperial court

The wedding was to take place at noon in the Hofburg Chapel, but the ceremonies had begun several days before. On Friday afternoon, two special trains had arrived in Vienna. The first one came from Stuttgart and carried the official representative of His Majesty King Wilhelm II of Württemberg: his cousin from Silesia, Duke Nicholas of Württemberg. The second one, even more prestigious, came from the Gödollo imperial station, near Budapest. It was the personal train of his Majesty Emperor Franz Joseph. The emperor had come especially to attend the wedding of his cousin: Maria Immaculata Rainera of Austria-Tuscany.

   Certainly the archduchess was the youngest daughter of a younger prince member of a minor branch of the Imperial House. But she was an orphan. Her father, Archduke Carl Salvatore had died in 1892. Her mother, Princess Maria Immacolata of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, had died in January 1899. Since that last death, Rainera, as she was called, had lived with her godfather and guardian: Archduke Rainier, the richest and most respected man in the imperial family. He was the only member of the imperial family who was allowed to present himself in front of the emperor at any time without an audience.

   For nearly a week, the young Archduchess’s “Trousseau” had been on display in three salons of Archduke Rainier’s palace. The Wiener Salon Blatt in its edition of Sunday October 28 gives a very accurate description of the jewels. They were exhibited in two glass showcases. Place of honor had been given to the emperor’s gift: A rivière of 38 diamonds acquired by his majesty from the court jeweler, Köchert. Then came a tiara set with rubies and diamonds. It was the gift of Archduke Rainier and his wife and it was also from Köchert. Several pieces of jewelry, also signed Köchert, came from the inheritance of the young bride’s mother: a necklace of five rows of pearls (lot 1081), a bracelet of pearls, rubies and diamonds (lot 1078) and a tiara of pearls and of diamonds (Lot 1083). The groom, Duke Robert of Württemberg had also offered a rivière of diamonds to his future wife.

   On Saturday October 27 the official court ceremonies began. At noon, the young archduchess took the oath of renunciation of her rights to the hereditary possessions of the Habsburgs. This was the tradition for an alliance with a foreign prince. In the evening, the Emperor gave a family dinner at the Hofburg. On Sunday evening, in the Redoutensaal of the Imperial Palace, 700 guests were invited to a gala dinner followed by a concert. The menu in French began with a Chambord soup and ended with cherry ice cream. The concert alternated works by Léo Delibes, Tchaikovsky, Brahms and Grieg.

Then, finally, on Monday the 29th at 12, the wedding ceremony started and Her Imperial and Royal Highness Archduchess Maria Immaculata Rainera of Austria-Tuscany became her Royal Highness, Duchess Robert of Württemberg. Duke Robert would die in 1947, but Maria Immaculata Rainera would live until the very respectable age of 90, in 1968. Many Jewels from her Trousseau are presented in this catalogue.

Vincent Meylan

Köchert Ruby and Diamond Tiara

Estimate: 180,000 – 350,000 CHF

From the collection of Duchess Isabella of Württemberg, Princess of Saxony

A Köchert Ruby and Diamond Tiara, from the collection of Duchess Isabella of Württemberg, Princess of Saxony, circa 1896, of bow and ribbon design, set with oval and cushion-shaped rubies, set throughout with cushion-shaped and circular-cut diamonds, three bow-shaped motifs and four arches detachable,, additional fittings for wear as a circlet. The Tiara was last worn by Duke Albrecht Eugen’s duaghter, Duchess Sophie of Württemberg, for a Ball in 1997.

This tiara was part of the estate of Isabella, Duchess of Württemberg (1871-1904). In 1894, she married Prince Johann George of Saxony (1869-1938). Upon her untimely death in 1904, her ruby and diamond tiara by Köchert was bequeathed to her nephew Albrecht Eugen, Duke of Württemberg (1895-1954).

Diamond Bow Brooch

Estimate: 28,000 – 45,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg 

A Diamond Bow Brooch, circa 1840, designed as a bow set with cushion-shaped diamonds, enhanced with rose diamonds, the reverse engraved with a pattern of rococo-style scrolls, pendant detachable, which comes from the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg.

The Order of the Starry Cross

This bow-shaped brooch was intended to suspend the Order of the Starry Cross or Sternkreuzorden. The Order of the Starry Cross was founded in 1668 by Eleonora Gonzaga (1630–1686), consort of Holy Roman Emperor Ferdinand II. The order included ladies of the higher nobility or Hochadel. Its spiritual aim was for its members to live a virtuous life guided by Christian values.

Soon, the Order of the Starry Cross evolved into a dynastic family order comprising only female members and relations of the Habsburg dynasty. In that respect it functions in much the same way as the British Royal Family orders which are founded with the accession of each new monarch. Traditionally the role of High Protectress of the order is held by the spouse of the head of the Habsburg dynasty or by the most senior Archduchess.

The decoration consists out of an oval plaque featuring a red enamel cross with a black enamel Habsburg double eagle in the background within a frame of blue enamel and topped by the Latin motto ‘Salus et Gloria’. The order is worn pinned to the left breast, either from a black moiré silk bow or from a diamond-encrusted bow such as the present lot.

The Bourbon-Parma sale held in these rooms in November 2018, included just such a bow intended to suspend the Order of the Starry Cross with a provenance of the Empress Maria Theresa (lot 77).

Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg

An exceptional and highly important Pearl and Diamond Devant-de-Corsage from the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg, circa 1865, designed as a floral wreath set throughout with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, the central flowerhead set with a drop-shaped natural pearl supporting three detachable drop-shaped pearl pendants capped by diamond-set surmounts, the stamen of each remaining flowerhead set with a button-shaped natural pearl, each flowerhead detachable, fitting for wearing the central flowerhead and three pendants as a brooch, two small diamonds deficient, fitted case stamped Emil Biedermann. Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) offered this devant de corsage as a wedding gift to his bride Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) on the occasion of their marriage in 1865, later left to their daughter-in-law, Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968)

Emil Biedermann (1830-1900) was a renowned Viennese jeweller and Köchert’s main competitor during the mid-nineteenth century.

Emil Biedermann ran a business founded by his grandfather Michael Lazar Biedermann (1769-1843). Michael Lazar was born in Pressburg (Bratislava) and apprenticed with an engraver in Vienna. In 1792, he adopted the surname Biedermann. By 1800, he had established his own jewellery store in Vienna and later branched out into textile manufacturing and banking.

His sons Joseph and Anton Biedermann took over the running of the jewellery business.

After the revolution of 1848, a young Emperor Franz Joseph jointly named Biedermann and Köchert crown jewellers, a position Biedermann would hold for the following twenty years. Michael Lazar Biedermann’s daughter Regine married her first cousin Joseph Biedermann and they were the parents of Emil Biedermann who would lead the company through its most successful period during the mid-nineteenth century. Biedermann ceased activity in the early 1890s.

For decades Biedermann received important commissions from the Imperial family amongst which this elaborate devant de corsage undoubtedly stands out as one of his most ambitious creations.

Pearl and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 270,000 – 450,000 CHF

From the collection of Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen, Duchess of Württemberg

A superb natural Pearl and Diamond Brooch, circa 1865, set with a slightly baroque button-shaped natural pearl within a border of cushion-shaped diamonds, supporting a detachable pendant set with a slightly baroque drop-shaped natural pearl.

This natural pearl brooch was a wedding present from Alexander, Duke of Württemberg (1804-1881) to Archduchess Marie Therese of Austria-Teschen (1845-1927) on the occasion of her marriage to his son Philipp, Duke of Württemberg (1838-1917) in 1865. Later it was bequeathed to the couple’s daughter-in-law Archduchess Maria Immaculata of Austria-Tuscany, Duchess of Württemberg (1878-1968).

Diamond Bandeau Tiara

Estimate: 11,000 – 16,000 CHF

From the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary

A Diamond Bandeau Tiara, circa 1840, the curved base supporting a slightly graduated row of lozenges alternating with bars, set throughout with cushion-shaped diamonds, from the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary,

Princess Clémentine of Orléans owned a ruby and diamond parure incorporating the same lozenge motif as featured in this bandeau. This similarity, as well as the curvature of the base typical for French tiaras produced during the 1820s-1840s, makes an attribution to the collection of Clémentine of Orléans highly likely.

Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch

Estimate: 800 – 1,400 CHF

From the collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary

A Gem-Set and Diamond Brooch, circa 1890s, from the Collection of Princess Clémentine of Orléans, Princess of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha-Kohary, designed as the cipher of Tsar Ferdinand I of Bulgaria set with circular-cut and rose diamonds, enhanced with a cabochon emerald and red enamel, supporting three seed pearl pendants.

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