There are many striking antique Jewels coming up for Auction this month, with a Diamond Tiara, a Cameo Parure from Eugène de Beauharnais, Duke of Leuchtenberg and a Pearl Necklace given by King Gustav III among the Jewels on Auction at Bukowskis in Stockholm today!
Emerald and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: 100 000 – 125 000 SEK
A Brooch silver and 14K gold with a step-cut emerald as well as old- and rose-cut diamonds. Circa 1900.
Emeralds are beautiful green gemstones that have been valued for thousands of years. They are a type of mineral called beryl, and their green color comes from traces of chromium and vanadium. Emeralds are often used in jewelry and are known for their rich, deep color. The most famous emeralds come from Colombia, but they are also found in countries like Brazil and Zambia. Because of their beauty and rarity, emeralds are considered one of the most precious gemstones in the world.
Fabergé Pendant/Brooch
Estimate: 200 000 – 225 000 SEK
A Fabergé Pendant/Brooch with chalcedony and diamonds, August Hollming St Petersburg 1899 – 1908
Fabergé is a renowned Russian jewelry brand famous for its exquisite craftsmanship and luxurious designs. While best known for its Imperial Easter eggs, Fabergé also created a wide range of fine jewelry, including brooches, pendants, and rings. The pieces often featured intricate details, enamel work, and precious stones. Fabergé’s jewelry was highly prized by royalty and aristocrats for its elegance, creativity, and unmatched quality. Fabergé’s ledgers refer to cabochon chalcedony stones in shades of purple-blue or mauve as “Mecca stones.” The name likely originates from Mocha, a town on Yemen’s Red Sea coast, where these stones were originally mined.
Cameo Parure
Estimate: 130,000 – 150,000 SEK
A necklace and a pair of earrings, gold and enamel with cameos and pearls, 19th century, according to family tradition, originally a gift from Eugène de Beauharnais (1781-1824), Napoleon’s adopted son, to Princess Maria Theresia von Thurn und Taxis (1794-1874). Gift from her to one of her ladies-in-waiting. Thereafter inherited within the family.
During Napoleon’s time, it became fashionable to wear large sets of jewelry. The so-called garnitures from the First Empire were not infrequently set with cameos. The interest can be traced back to the then craze for antiquity, where cameos and intaglios were appreciated by Roman emperors. By linking to previous empires, the aim was to demonstrate a new expression of power and continuity. Napoleon became interested in jewelry to assert the political authority he had won. In the form of a tiara, for example, there is nothing more symbolic of rank than crowning someone with a piece of jewelry. Then cameos are a perfected craft and an aesthetic experience among the highest in jewelry art. The cameos sometimes also appeared with the emperor’s portrait.
The jewelry house Chaumet, formerly known as Nitot et Fils, became associated with Napoleon’s rule. Nitot et Fils (1780 – 1814) was Napoleon’s personal jeweler.
The royal set of cameos from Nitot is one of the foremost examples of this accomplished art of cameo jewelry. Probably made in Paris at the beginning of the 19th century as a gift from Napoleon to his wife Josephine.
The magnificent necklace in Neo-classical style with cameos that Bukowskis sells is, according to family tradition, originally a gift from Eugène de Beauharnais (1781-1824), Napoleon’s adopted son, to Princess Maria Theresia von Thurn und Taxis (1794-1874). From there, a gift from her to one of her ladies-in-waiting. Then inherited within the family.
The cameo at the front is eye-catching with its romanticizing medieval castle, with two towers which is unusual. The two towers unusual motif could possibly be said to symbolize union in the form of marriage.
Pearl Necklace
Estimate: 60,000 – 80,000 SEK
Royal gift necklace, natural pearls with diamond clasp.
According to family tradition, the necklace was a gift from King Gustav III to the wife of court marshal Carl Ludvig von Boltenstern, Brita Celestine von Böhmen (1756-1839), later mistress of the court to King Gustav IV Adolf.
Inherited to the only child, Louise (1787-1822), married von Rosen.
Thereafter inherited within the family.
A letter is included with purchase that carefully describes which women have owned the necklace.
Emerald and Diamond Brooch
Estimate: 25,000 – 27,000 SEK
A Brooch 18K white gold in the shape of a bouquet with emeralds and octagonal and round brilliant-cut diamonds
Diamond Brooch
Estimate: 60,000 – 70,000 SEK
A Brooch 14K gold and silver with old-cut diamonds, 19th century
During the 19th century, floral motifs were a dominant theme in jewelry design, symbolizing nature, beauty, and sentimentality. Diamond-set floral brooches combined intricate metalwork with the brilliance of diamonds, reflecting the craftsmanship of the Victorian and Edwardian eras. These pieces often featured delicate arrangements of petals and leaves, showcasing both artistic expression and technical skill. They remain significant examples of period aesthetics and luxury adornment.
Diamond Tiara
Estimate: 60,000 – 70,000 SEK
A Diamond Tiara/brooch/necklace, silver with old-cut and rose-cut diamonds
Various forms of head ornaments have been used for centuries. During the neoclassicism of the 19th century, the art form of tiaras blossomed and reached its crescendo in execution during the First Empire in France. Emperor Napoleon’s wife, Empress Joséphine, wore striking tiaras that became an expression of this high culture in the art of tiaras. By linking to antiquity as a model, they took on magnificent expressions and were often included in larger sets together with, for example, earrings, bracelets and brooches in sets known as parure. The plant kingdom has been a source of inspiration for many tiaras where precious metals were shaped into myrtle, orange blossoms, laurel, wall vines and grapevines. These could be richly set with diamonds, emeralds, as well as various cameos and pearls.
Diamond and Zircon Brooch
Estimate: 14,000 – 16,000 SEK
Brooch 14K gold and silver with a faceted zircon
Diamond and Ruby Brooch
Estimate: 12,000 – 15,000 SEK
A Brooch 18K gold and silver with diamonds and rubies in the shape of a flower basket
